What Chișinău and Moldova is actually like
Most people book Chișinău for the Soviet-era blocks and statues, and they are there. What surprises everyone is how modern the city centre is: leafy boulevards, new cafés and restaurants, and a young, friendly crowd. The food is hearty and very good (try plăcinte, sarmale and mămăligă), and the wine is the real reason to come. Moldova is one big vineyard, and the cellars at Cricova and Mileștii Mici run for tens of kilometres underground; Mileștii Mici holds the world record for the largest wine collection.
Who Chișinău and Moldova suits
- Wine lovers
- Foodies on a budget
- Curious travellers who like somewhere different
Best time to go to Chișinău and Moldova from Ireland
May to June and September to early October: warm, green and harvest season in the vineyards. July and August are hot. Winters are cold and grey, though the cellars stay the same temperature all year.
Where to stay in Chișinău and Moldova
- City centre (Centru): Walkable, near Ștefan cel Mare Boulevard, the cathedral park and most restaurants. See hotels in City centre (Centru) (opens in a new tab)
- Near Valea Morilor park: Quieter, by the lake, a short taxi into the centre. See hotels near Valea Morilor park (opens in a new tab)
- A winery stay: Château Vartely, Purcari or Asconi have rooms. Book a night among the vines. See places to stay in Chișinău (opens in a new tab)
Compare hotels and apartments in Chișinău (opens in a new tab)
Hotel prices in Chișinău
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What nobody tells you about Chișinău and Moldova
- Book the Cricova or Mileștii Mici cellar tours in advance; you tour them by car or little train.
- Taxis are cheap. Use a local ride app or ask your hotel to order one, and agree the price first if you hail one on the street.
- Pay in Moldovan lei. Cards work in most of the city, but bring cash for markets and wineries.
- Take a day trip to Orheiul Vechi, a cave monastery above a river gorge, about an hour away.
- Don't call Moldovan wine 'cheap plonk'. It's cheap, and it's often excellent.
